A puppy mill is a large scale commercial dog breeding operation.  Hundreds of dogs are usually housed in overcrowded and unsanitary conditions without adequate veterinary care, food, water or socialization. 

Puppy mill dogs do not get to experience treats, toys, exercise or basic grooming.  Dogs are often kept in cages with wire flooring that injures their paws and legs and it is not unusual for cages to be stacked in columns. Female dogs are bred at every opportunity with little-to-no recovery time between litters and when they can no longer reproduce, they are often euthanized.  Breeding dogs at puppy mills might spend their entire lives outdoors, exposed to the elements, or crammed inside filthy structures where they never get the chance to breathe fresh air or see the sun.

Dogs are often bred with little regard for genetic quality.  Puppy mill puppies are prone to congenital and hereditary conditions.  These can include:

• Epilepsy
• Heart disease
• Kidney disease
• Musculoskeletal disorders (hip dysplasia, luxating patellas, etc.)
• Endocrine disorders (diabetes, hyperthyroidism)
• Blood disorders (anemia, Von Willebrand disease)
• Deafness
• Eye problems (cataracts, glaucoma, progressive retinal atrophy, etc.)
• Respiratory disorders

Puppies often arrive in their new homes with diseases including:

• Giardia
• Parovirus
• Distemper
• Upper respiratory infections
• Kennel cough
• Pneumonia
• Mange
• Fleas
• Ticks
• Intestinal parasites
• Heartworm
• Chronic diarrhea

Puppies are also removed from their mothers and littermates at a young age so they often suffer from fear, anxiety and other behavioral problems.

There are an estimated 10,000 licensed and unlicensed puppy mills in the United States, in total selling more than 2 million puppies annually.  The vast majority of these dogs are sold to pet stores by dealers or brokers.  Avoid the temptation to "rescue" a puppy from a pet store, as this just puts money into the pockets of the puppy mill industry and ensures they will continue to breed dogs in inhumane conditions.  Adopt or find a responsible breeder!

House-training your puppy requires vigilance, patience, plenty of commitment and above all, consistency.

Puppies do best on a regular schedule, just like a baby.  The schedule teaches him/her that there are times to eat, times to play and times to potty.

As a rule, a puppy can control his/her bladder 1 hour for every month of age.  So if your puppy is 2 months old, he/she can hold it for about 2 hours.  Don’t go longer than this between bathroom breaks or he’s/she’s guaranteed to have an accident.

Take your puppy outside frequently – at least every 2 hours – and immediately after he/she wakes up, during and after playing, and after eating or drinking.

Pike a bathroom spot outside – always take your puppy (on a leash) to that spot.  While your puppy is eliminating, use a word or phrase, like “go potty”, that you can eventually use before he/she eliminates to remind him/her what to do.  Take him/her out for a longer walk or some playtime only after he/she has eliminated.

Reward your puppy every time he/she eliminates outdoors.  Praise him/her or give him/her a treat – but remember to do so immediately after he’s/she’s eliminating, not after he/she comes back inside the house.  Puppies are easily distracted so if you praise him/her too soon, he/she may forget to finish until he’s/she’s back in the house.

Put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule.  What goes into a puppy on a schedule, comes out of a puppy on a schedule.  Depending on their age, puppies usually need to be fed three or four times a day.  Feeding your puppy at the same times each day will make is more likely that he’ll/she’ll eliminate at consistent times as well.  Depending on what type of food the puppy eats (dry or canned), the amount of food eaten, and the amount of fiber in the diet will dictate how frequently the puppy will need to defecate.  Typically, you can expect your puppy need to defecate anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour after he/she has eaten.

Pick up your puppy’s water dish about 2 ½ hours before bedtime to reduce the likelihood that he’ll/she’ll need to potty during the night.  Most puppies can sleep for approximately 7 hours without having to eliminate.  If your puppy does wake you up in the night to go potty, don’t make a big deal about it; otherwise he/she will think it’s time to play and won’t want to go back to sleep.  Turn on as few lights as possible, don’t talk to or play with your puppy; take him/her out to do his/her business and return him/her to his bed.

Supervise your Puppy

Don’t give your puppy an opportunity to eliminate in the house; keep an eye on him/her whenever he’s/she’s indoors.

Tether your puppy to your or a nearby piece of furniture with a 6 foot leash if you are not actively training or playing with your puppy.  Watch for signs that you puppy needs to eliminate; barking or scratching at the door, squatting, restlessness, sniffing around or circling. When you see any of these signs, immediately grab the leash and take your puppy outside to his/her bathroom spot. If he/she eliminates, praise lavishly and reward with a treat.  While house-training your puppy, your yard should be treated like any other room in your house so keep your puppy on a leash while they are in your yard.

Confine your puppy when you can’t supervise

When you’re unable to watch your puppy at all times, confine your puppy to an area small enough that he/she won’t want to eliminate there.  The space should be just big enough for him/her to comfortably stand, lie down and turn around.  You can use a portion of a bathroom/laundry room blocked off with baby gates or crate train your puppy.

Mistakes Happen

Expect your puppy to have a few accidents in the house; it’s a normal part of house-training.  Here’s what to do when an accident happens:

• Interrupt your puppy when you catch them in the act of eliminating in the house.  Make a startling noise (be careful not to scare him/her) or say “OUTSIDE!” immediately and take him/her to his/her bathroom spot.  If he/she finishes eliminating outside, praise and give a treat.
• Don’t punish your puppy for eliminating in the house.  If you find a soiled area, it’s too late to administer a correction; just clean it up.  Rubbing your puppy’s nose in it, taking them to the spot and scolding, or any other punishment will only make him/her afraid of your or afraid to eliminate in your presence. 
• Clean the soiled area with a product designed specifically to clean pet urine/feces.
  

Crate training uses a dog’s natural instincts as a den animal.  A wild dog’s den is his/her home; a place to sleep, hide from danger, and raise a family.  The crates becomes your dog’s den, an ideal spot to snooze or take refuge during a thunderstorm.

The primary use for a crate is for house-training; dogs don’t like to soil their dens.  A crate can also limit the access to the rest of the house while he/she learns other rules, like not to chew furniture.  Crates are also a safe way to transport your dog in a vehicle.

Crates come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores or big box stores with pet departments.
A dog’s crate should be just large enough for him/her to stand up and turn around in.  If your dog is still growing, choose a crate size that will accommodate his/her adult size.  Block off the excess crate space so your dog can’t eliminate at one end and retreat to the other using a divider panel.

Types of crates:

• Plastic (often called “flight kennels” or “travel kennels”)
• Fabric on a collapsible, rigid frame
• Collapsible, metal crates

The time it will take to crate your dog depending on your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences.  Keep the following two things in mind while crate training:

• The crate should always be associated with something pleasant.
  
• Training should take place in a series of small steps; Do Not go too fast.

Whining

If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's/she’s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he/she needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his/her crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he'll/she’ll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him/her or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.

If the whining continues after you've ignored him/her for several minutes, use the phrase he/she associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him/her outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him/her until the stops whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he/she wants. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.
 
Separation anxiety

Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he/she may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult your veterinarian and/or trainer for help.

In 1750 Jonathan Plott and his brother left Germany bound for America. They took with them five Hanoverian Hounds. Jonathan Plott's brother died during the trip but Jonathan settled in North Carolina. It was there that he raised a family and bred his dogs. A mix of Bloodhounds and Curs reportedly comprised the original stock. For the next 200 years the dogs were bred by generations of Plott family members and were referred to as the Plott's hounds.

The dogs worked at hunting bear and raccoon in the Appalachian, Blue Ridge and Great Smoky Mountains of the eastern United States. They are very effective in the search for coyotes, wolves and wildcats.  The Plott family rarely put the dogs on the market so they remained rare outside the southern United States.

The dogs were recognized for the first time in 1946 by the United Kennel Club. Plotts are hardy and have superior hunting instincts.  The breed was carefully developed to be stronger and more persistent. They were able to make good family companions but were seldom kept as such, as most owners acquired the dogs for the hunt.

In 2006 the breed was officially recognized by the AKC as the "Plott" and is now shown as a show dog, but there are many who still hunt and breed them as hunting dogs.

The Plott hound should be athletic, muscular, and agile in appearance.  It should be neither low-set and heavy, nor leggy and light.  Its expression should be one of intelligence, confidence, and determination.  Is skin should not be baggy like that of a Bloodhound.  The Plott is a strongly built yet moderate hound, with a distinct brindle-colored coat.  Brindle is defined as “Finely streaked or striped effect or pattern of black or tan hairs with hairs of a lighter or darker background color.  Shades of colors accepted: yellow brindle, red brindle, tan brindle, brown brindle, black brindle, grey brindle, and maltese (slate grey, blue brindle).”

In a study conducted by the National Council on Pet Population Study and Policy, statistics indicate that a top reason for pet homelessness is related to moving and being unable to get pet friendly housing. Many landlords and property managers DO open their residences and communities to responsible pet caretakers.  Please consider the following advice when seeking a lease or purchasing a property where pets are allowed:

1. Give yourself a minimum of six weeks to find a suitable rental.
2. Compile documents that prove you are a responsible pet owner. Include vaccination records, training certificates and letters of reference from your previous or current landlord and veterinarian. You can even make a resume for your pet!
3. Be prepared to pay and even offer an extra security deposit.
4. Promote your pet and yourself. Make arrangements for the landlord to meet your pet! Responsible pet owners make excellent renters.
5. Protect your rights. Make sure “pets allowed” is part of your written lease agreement or in the association by-laws.
6. Don’t try to conceal your pet. You may be subject to eviction or legal action.
7. Respect the pet restrictions. Most properties will have policies in place such as: weight/size limitation, breed limitation, species limitation, and maximum number of pets allowed.
8. Respect pet “house rules or by-laws”. All properties will have regulations in place for the benefit of the community at large. Let your landlord or property association know that you will comply.

Remember that every situation may have slightly different guidelines.  So take as much time as necessary to fully understand all the rules and regulations pertaining to your lease or homeowner’s association contract.

For information on where to find pet friendly housing in your area, visit the following links:

Rent.com

BringFindo.com

While xylitol is OK for humans, it’s extremely toxic to dogs.  Small amounts of xylitol can cause hypoglycemia (low blood sugar), seizures, liver failure or even death in dogs.  The higher the dose ingested, the greater the risk of liver failure.

When a dog eats something containing xylitol, it’s quickly absorbed into the bloodstream, resulting in a potent release of insulin from the pancreas.  This rapid release of insulin results in a profound decrease in the level of blood sugar (hypoglycemia) which can occur within 10 to 60 minutes of ingestion.  There is not antidote for xylitol toxicity.

Symptoms of xylitol intoxication include:

• Vomiting
• Weakness
• Lethargy
• Loss of coordination
• Collapse
• Seizures

If you suspect your pet has eaten a product containing xylitol and is experiencing any of these symptoms, immediate veterinary care is needed to save your dog’s life.

When a dog suffers from xylitol toxicity, veterinarians will have to take a two-pronged approach to the dog's treatment.

First, if the dog ate the sugar-free gum or other food containing xylitol within the past two hours, the veterinarian will take measures to prevent the body's absorption of any additional xylitol. To prevent the dog's body from absorbing additional xylitol, the vet will usually induce vomiting in the dog and/or give the dog a charcoal-based fluid to adsorb the stomach contents.

Second, a dog with xylitol poisoning will receive supportive care to manage the effects of the xylitol. Treatment usually consists of a dextrose (sugar) intravenous drip to raise the dog's blood sugar levels and the injection of intravenous fluids for at least 24 hours.

Xylitol also affects the dog's liver, causing permanent liver damage in some dogs and possibly triggering liver failure in others. Additional treatment and monitoring is often required to help manage the effect of xylitol on the dog's liver. Liver enzyme and blood clotting tests are monitored for 2 to 3 days along with blood levels of potassium and phosphorus. Elevated blood phosphorus levels often has a poorer prognosis for the dog.

Brachycephalic (short-nosed) and toy breeds are often predisposed because their teeth don’t have normal alignment, and in the case of tiny dogs, there’s often a crowding problem. No matter how vigorously these dogs chew, it doesn’t remove all the plaque and tartar from their teeth.

Dogs with chronic health conditions also seem to collect more tartar on their teeth. This could be due to less vigorous chewing, or it could be the result of changes in saliva quantity, gum health, the pH in the mouth, or other causes.

What is canine degenerative myelopathy?

Canine degenerative myelopathy is an incurable, progressive disease of the canine spinal cord.  It initially affects the back legs and causes muscle weakness and loss and lack of coordination.  It occurs in dogs older than 5 years old and is strongly associated with a gene mutation in SOD1.

Degenerative myelopathy symptoms

Early Stages

• Progressive weakness of the hind limbs
• Worn nails
• Difficulty rising
• Stumbling
• Knuckling of the toes
• Scuffing hind feet
• Wearing of the inner digits of the rear paws
• Loss of muscle in the rear legs
• Tremors of the rear legs

Late Stages

• Persistent early stages
• Urinary and fecal incontinence
• Eventual front leg weakness from compensatory strain
• Mental stress and anxiety
• Pressure sores on boney prominences
• Inability to rise
• Muscle atrophy
• Poor hygiene - soiled appearance
• Pneumonia
• Depression
• Infection/sepsis
• Constipation
• Organ failure

Crisis - Immediate veterinary assistance needed regardless of the disease

• Difficulty breathing
• Prolonged seizures
• Uncontrollable vomiting/diarrhea
• Sudden collapse
• Profuse bleeding — internal or external
• Crying/whining from pain

Treatment

Canine degenerative myelopathy is an irreversible, progressive disease that cannot currently be cured.  There are no treatments that been clearly shown to stop or slow progression of the disease. During the early stages, a wheelchair is beneficial for mobility.

Prognosis

The long term prognosis is poor and most dogs are euthanized within 6 months to 3 years of diagnosis as the disease progresses.  When the dog can no longer walk, a wheelchair is no longer an option, long term hospice care or euthanasia should be considered.

Hemorrhagic gastroenteritis (HGE) is an acute disorder of dogs characterized by vomiting and bloody diarrhea.  Most cases occur suddenly without warning in an otherwise healthy dog.  HGE is most common in young adult dogs of any breed, but especially small breed dogs.  HGE is not contagious.

What causes HGE?

The exact cause of HGE remains a mystery.  Theories range from ingesting non-food items, immune-medicated disease, toxins, pancreatitis or a bacterial infection of the gastrointestinal tract. 

What are the symptoms of HGE?

HGE is characterized by a very sudden onset of severe bloody diarrhea, often accompanied by vomiting (mucus and blood), loss of appetite and lethargy. Severe hypovolemia (low blood volume) is one of the characteristics of the disease and severe hemoconcentration (concentrated blood) is considered necessary for diagnosis.  The packed cell volume (PCV) or hematocrit (HCT), a measurement of the proportion of red blood cells, is often greater than 60% in dogs with HGE. Most dogs have a normal HCT of 37% to 55%. An elevated HCT in combination with a low or normal total solids (TS) is an important clue that a dog may have HGE. Blood bicarbonate levels, blood pH levels, and serum chemistries also give indicators that HGE may be present. The progression of HGE can be so rapid that hypovolemic shock and death can occur within 24 hours

Even though it is not inflamed, the lining of the intestinal tract becomes very leaky. Fluid, protein, and red blood cells seep out of vessels within the intestinal wall. The body responds with a process known as splenic contraction. The spleen serves as a reservoir for red blood cells. When the body senses that more may be quickly needed, the spleen releases its reserves into circulation.

How is HGE treated?

Intravenous fluid therapy with potassium and electrolyte supplementation provides the foundation of HGE therapy. Subcutaneous fluids (given under the skin) are not usually considered adequate to meet the significant fluid requirements of most dogs with HGE. Most dogs are not fed during the first 24 hours of treatment and are often given antibiotics (such as Ampicillin, Enrofloxacin, or Metronidazole) to combat potential secondary intestinal infection (C. perfringens). Additional therapy for HGE may include gastrointestinal protectants (Sucralfate) and anti-vomiting medications. In severe cases, plasma or colloids may be needed to correct severely low blood protein levels.

If intravenous fluid therapy is not given, the dog’s red blood cell count will continue to elevate because of dehydration. In this situation, the dog is at risk for a potentially fatal clotting disorder called disseminated intravascular coagulation (DIC). Once DIC has begun, it is often irreversible and may result in death.  Treated early and aggressively, hemorrhagic gastroenteritis has a good prognosis.

Signs of Heartworm Disease

In the early stages of the disease, many dogs show few symptoms or no symptoms at all.  Symptoms will develop the longer the infection exists.  Active dogs, dogs heavily infected with heartworms or those with other health problems show pronounced clinical signs.

Symptoms of heartworm disease may include a mild persistent cough, reluctance to exercise, fatigue after moderate activity, decreased appetite and weight loss.  As it progresses, pets may develop heart failure and the appearance of a swollen belly due to excess fluid in the abdomen.  Dogs with a large number of heartworms can develop a sudden blockage of blood flow within the heart leading to a life-threatening form of cardiovascular collapse.  This is called caval syndrome and is marked by a sudden onset of labored breathing, pale gums and dark bloody or coffee colored urine.  Without the prompt surgical removal of the blockage, few dogs survive.

Symptoms of heartworm in cats can be very subtle or very dramatic and may include coughing, asthma-like attacks, periodic vomiting, and lack of appetite or weight loss.  Occasionally an affected cat may have difficulty waking, experience fainting or seizures, or suffer from fluid accumulation in the abdomen.  Unfortunately, the first sign in some cases is sudden collapse of the cat or sudden death.

Heartworm disease is a serious, progressive disease. The earlier it is detected, the better the chances the pet will recover. There are few, if any, early signs of disease when a dog is infected with heartworms, so detecting their presence with a heartworm test administered by a veterinarian is important. The test requires just a small blood sample from your dog, and it works by detecting the presence of heartworm proteins. Some veterinarians process heartworm tests right in their hospitals while others send the samples to a diagnostic laboratory. In either case, results are obtained quickly.

Heartworm Testing

All dogs should be tested annually for heartworm infection, and this can usually be done during a routine visit for preventive care. Following are guidelines on testing and timing:

• Puppies under 7 months of age can be started on heartworm prevention without a heartworm test (it takes at least 6 months for a dog to test positive after it has been infected), but should be tested 6 months after your initial visit, tested again 6 months later and yearly after that to ensure they are heartworm free.

• Adult dogs over 7 months of age and previously not on a preventive need to be tested prior to starting heartworm prevention.  They, too, need to be tested 6 months and 12 months later and annually after that.

• If there has been a lapse in prevention (one or more late or missed doses), dogs should be tested immediately, then tested again six months later and annually after that.

Annual testing is necessary, even when dogs are on heartworm prevention year-round, to ensure that the prevention program is working. Heartworm medications are highly effective, but dogs can still become infected. If you miss just one dose of a monthly medication—or give it late—it can leave your dog unprotected. Even if you give the medication as recommended, your dog may spit out or vomit a heartworm pill—or rub off a topical medication. Heartworm preventives are highly effective, but not 100 percent effective. If you don’t get your dog test, you won’t know your dog needs treatment.

Heartworm infection in cats is harder to detect than in dogs, because cats are much less likely than dogs to have adult heartworms. The preferred method for screening cats includes the use of both an antigen and an antibody test (the “antibody” test detects exposure to heartworm larvae). Your veterinarian may also use x-rays or ultrasound to look for heartworm infection. Cats should be tested before being put on prevention and re-tested as the veterinarian deems appropriate to document continued exposure and risk. Because there is no approved treatment for heartworm infection in cats, prevention is critical.

Heartworm Preventatives